Complete Guide To Bespoke Suits To Create Your Signature Style


Getting a bespoke suit is an investment that pays off in both style and longevity. With rich fabrics and expert stitches and cuts, a bespoke suit is the perfect piece to own in your wardrobe. 

Once you find a talented tailor who takes the time to understand your vision, you can create a suit that is tailored specifically to your physique, tastes, and lifestyle. More than just looking sharp, it allows you to truly express your personal style. 

A custom-made suit will fit you perfectly from day one and continue fitting well for years to come, even if your measurements change slightly. 

So, are you ready to know a lot more about bespoke suits?

Bespoke vs Made-to-Measure: What’s the Difference?

Understanding the difference between bespoke and made-to-measure is crucial when it comes to tailored clothing. 

Made-to-measure involves adjusting a pre-existing pattern to fit your measurements, offering a higher customisation level than ready-to-wear, but still with limitations. 

On the other hand, bespoke tailoring takes personalisation to a whole new level. A bespoke suit is a work of artistry, created from scratch based on your individual measurements and preferences. It involves multiple fittings and consultations with a master tailor, resulting in a garment that's truly one-of-a-kind.

While both options provide superior fit compared to off-the-rack suits, the bespoke process offers unparalleled attention to detail and precision. 

Factors To Consider When Getting A Bespoke Suit

Bespoke tailoring is a traditional method that involves hand-sewing every part of a garment by expert craftsmen from start to finish. As a result, it takes more time to create a bespoke suit than a regular one. 

This method ensures that the garment is entirely unique and tailored to the exact measurements and preferences of the buyer. Bespoke tailoring closely resembles creating couture garments, with each pattern being hand-cut and hand-sewn for a truly one-of-a-kind result.

Are you looking for a suit that complements your style and fits you like a second skin? Then you need to consider a few factors listed below:

1. Fabrics


Selecting the right fabric is one of the most essential factors in crafting a bespoke suit that meets both your aesthetic and functional needs. The fabrics range from traditional wool to luxurious cashmere and breezy silk blends.

Wool is an excellent material for suits due to its versatility and classy look. Since wool is a natural material, it breathes nicely and is suitable for wearing both during the day and at night. And worsted wool is one of the best options, especially in Dubai. 

Along with the type of fabric, you should consider the weight of the fabric, as it plays an important role in deciding the comfort level of your suit. We would suggest you go for a lower thread count if you're in humid places like Dubai. 

You can collaborate with your tailor to understand the characteristics of different fabrics and how they align with your preferences for better understanding. 

2. Patterns


The overall aesthetic impact of your bespoke suit is greatly influenced by its pattern. 

  • Solids work for a wide range of events due to their timeless elegance and versatility. 
  • Pinstripes reflect sophistication and can make your physique look elongated and tall, whereas checks and plaids offer a dash of personality and charm. 

When selecting a pattern, you need to consider the formality of the event and your personal style. Subtle patterns are apt for formal gatherings, while bolder patterns can make a statement in semi-formal or casual settings. 

You can always ask your tailor for suggestions and recommendations on which pattern will look good on your body type and which won't. 

3. Cut & Style

The cut and style of your bespoke suit define its silhouette and how it interacts with your body. A well-fitting suit ensures comfort while enhancing your physical appearance. To choose a style that flatters your body type and sense of style, you can look at different styles like single-breasted or double-breasted. 

There are three main cuts when it comes to suits- American, British and Italian.

Cut And Style

1. American Cut

Description: The American cut has a more roomy fit with a classic, timeless look that flatters various body types.

Waist: Generous waist, providing comfort.

Shoulders: Natural shoulder line, minimal padding

Lapel: Classic width, suitable for various occasions.

Pockets: Flap or besom pockets

Vents: Center vent, offering comfort and movement

Buttons: Single-breasted, 3-button suit

2. Italian Cut

Description: The Italian cut emanates refinement and elegance. It has a slim, tailored design that accentuates your body's curves.

Waist: Slim, tailored waistline

Shoulders: Lightly padded, high armholes for a slim profile

Lapel: Narrow lapels for a modern look.

Pockets: Slanted flap pockets or welt pockets

Vents: No vents

Buttons: Single-breasted, high-button suit


3. British Cut

Description: The English cut is traditional and firm, with meticulous tailoring that creates a polished, formal look.

Waist: Slightly tapered waist, creating a defined silhouette.

Shoulders: Strongly padded, emphasising the shoulders

Lapel: Medium width with notched or peaked lapels

Pockets: Flap pockets or jetted pockets

Vents: Double vents for a formal look

Buttons: Mostly double-breasted, 4-6 button suits

Types Of Jacket Constructions In Suits

1. Glued: This type of construction is the most affordable and commonly used for mass production. A fusible material is added to the front quarters of the jacket to create a three-dimensional shape. However, this type of construction is less breathable and more rigid. 

Additionally, there is a risk of unsightly bubbles appearing if the jacket is exposed to steam or humidity.

2. Half-canvas: It has a slightly better structure. Typically, there is a fusible on the bottom and a canvas piece on the breast.  However, there is still a risk of bubbles on the bottom.

3. Full canvas: This construction is the best and most expensive of the three. The jacket's front quarter has a full-length piece of canvas attached to it, either by hand or machine. The canvas will adapt to their silhouette as the person wears the jacket, and it warms up to their body.

4. Jackets: Made by real tailoring houses all feature a full canvas construction.

5. Empty: This type is frequently known as "shirt jackets". It's highly informal, like a building without foundations, made entirely of cloth with no interlining. One should be careful of the inevitable wrinkles that will appear after the first use. 

These various design factors work together to create a suit that reflects your personal style, body type, and the occasion. 

The DOs and DON’Ts of Buying Bespoke Suits

There are some rules to follow when it comes to getting yourself a bespoke suit. Here are some DOs and DON’Ts you should consider when buying a bespoke suit:


  • Do your research about different tailors, styles, and fabrics to make an informed choice.
  • Bring pictures or examples of styles you like to ensure clear communication with your tailor on what you want.
  • Choose premium fabrics that not only look great but also feel good on your skin and have the capacity to last longer.
  • When you talk to the tailor, clearly discuss your preferences, body concerns, and style expectations to make sure it turns out to be perfect for you!
  • Make sure you plan in advance and place your order ahead of time, as crafting a bespoke suit takes time due to multiple fittings and intricate detailing.


  • Avoid hurrying through measurements or design choices – patience ensures a perfect fit and look. 
  • Don't overcomplicate your design. Keep the design refined, as too many elements can lead to a cluttered look.
  • Don't disregard your tailor's suggestions. While your input matters, consider your tailor's expertise and advice since he might know better sometimes.
  • Never skip your fittings! Attend all scheduled fittings to ensure the suit aligns flawlessly with your body.
  • Don't neglect the maintenance of your bespoke suit. Once you own one, follow care instructions to preserve its quality and longevity.

Remember, investing in a good-quality bespoke suit is only worth it if you follow these guidelines!

Why Should You Buy A Bespoke Suit?

Owning a bespoke suit is more than just a purchase; it is a statement of unique style and individuality. 

A bespoke suit, as opposed to off-the-rack options, is precisely constructed to your exact measurements, ensuring a flawless fit that complements your body type. Creating a bespoke suit entails selecting high-quality fabrics and personalising every detail to your specifications, including lapels and buttons. 

The end result? A suit that not only looks good but also makes you feel good. 

Want to know more about why you need to buy a bespoke suit? Read our blog on “5 Reasons to Buy a Custom Suit” to get a better idea of it!

Get Your Bespoke Suit Tailored For Your Signature Style at Kachins Couture!

Established in 1981 in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Kachins has evolved into an epitome of elegance, redefining the art of tailoring and bespoke menswear. 

Proudly representing the finest fabric brands from Italy, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom, Kachins embodies a 40-year legacy of merging classic and contemporary styles. Our ready-to-wear men's collections, available on our website, encapsulate Kachins' signature style– a blend of sophistication and modernity. 

From formal shirts to trendy jackets, Kachins makes upscale tailoring accessible without compromising quality and comfort!

Visit our website to schedule an appointment to get a brand-new bespoke suit made for you!


In a world dominated by fast fashion and trends, the timeless elegance of bespoke suits stands tall even today. From selecting the finest fabrics to choosing intricate details, each step is a brushstroke that makes up the masterpiece. 

Remember, a bespoke suit is more than clothing; it's a statement of self-expression and confidence. It's perfect for different occasions to suit different styles and stand out from the crowd, bragging your signature bespoke suit from Kachins. 


What are the benefits of custom-made suits?

Custom-made suits come with many benefits like an accurate fit, high-quality fabrics and the ability to last much longer than other clothes/suits. Many people prefer it mostly because of its perfect fit and comfort.

Why should you buy a suit?

You should buy a suit if you attend a lot of formal events like business meetings, weddings, black-tie events, galas, dinners, or other social events. You can also buy a suit if you just want to spice up your wardrobe.

Why is custom clothing important?

Custom clothing offers great advantages like perfect fit, quality craftsmanship, comfort and durability, and an ability to express your personal style. Owning a piece of custom clothing makes sure that you look your best at all times.

What are custom suits called?

Custom suits are also called bespoke suits or made-to-measure suits. The term "bespoke" originally comes from the British tradition of "bespeaking" or ordering a specific fabric from a tailor.

When should you wear a suit?

You can wear a suit to many occasions like business meetings, weddings, formal events like charities, celebrations, parties, conferences and seminars, and more. It all depends on the dress code of the event you are attending.